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Why a Handmade Suit

 HANDMADE SUITS 

It's important to understand the different methods in making a suit. Most online suit sites won't tell you how they make their suit simply because there is nothing to tell as they are slapped together in little more than a sweatshop.

Here at Elite Suits we believe that an informed customer is able to make a better buying decision so we try to give as much information as we can. We want you to buy a better suit. If you can see how much better our $500 suit is than their $500 suit you will recognise how much more value you are getting for your dollar. We hope that this wil inspire you to buy yourself a better $500 suit instead of just a cheaper suit.

With that in mind here are the three main ways most suits are made 

1. FACTORY MADE

Also called "Machine Made". These suits are mass produced on a factory production line. Think of every factory you have ever seen and a suit factory isn't much different. One long line of suits going through different processes at varying stations along the line in order to turn a roll of cloth into thousand of basically identical suits.

The jacket is a fused canvas where a vegetable substance that turns to glue when heated is used to basically glue the various parts of the jacket to the inner structure. It produces a jacket that initially looks good but doesn't have the give and slip that a full canvas jacket has and according will not drape the torso as finely. Also fused canvas jackets have a tendency to pucker with age.

There is nothing wrong with factory made suits. This form of mass production is an excellent way to make an inexpensive suit. Our Beijing Collection is made in a similar fashion which is how we can sell them for under $300. However, what we're now seeing is expensive designer labels that sell for well over a thousand dollars being churned out by the tens of thousands by whichever factory can make the most suits in the shortest time for the least money.

In my opinion selling a suit made like this for $1,500 or more is not only a crime against fashion is should be just a crime and punishable by the courts. I see the deluded every day with their factory made fused suits with their fancy designer name on the label thinking what a wonderful suit they have purchased.

Nobody who actually knows anything about suits is going to spend that sort of money on a fused suit. They would be horrified by the mere thought of such an idea.

 

2. HAND MADE

Made by a tailor at his workbench with a sewing machine. Usually at least half canvassed these can be excellent value for money and great suits at fantastic prices. The skill, experience and precision eye of a trained tailor cannot be replicated by a machine in a factory.

These are the suits that experienced suit buyers look for across Asia. Experienced shoppers understand that the cheapest suit isn't always a bargain. Sometimes it's just a cheap suit. However some genuine bargains can be found by the savvy buyer where you can buy an excellent suit far cheaper than in the shops.

Our Jade Collection is a perfect example. Australian Merino wool is unchallenged as the world's best suiting fabric and over 80% of the annual production is now milled in China. Elite Suits now offer suits of this quality for under $500. Custom made by experienced tailors and fully canvassed, you can expect to see similar suits in the stores selling for well over a thousand dollars for off the rack sizing. If you're looking for a top quality business suit at an extremely good value for money price don't go past the Jade collection.

 

3. FULLY HAND STITCHED

You need to be careful here. Many places will allude, infer or even simply outright claim their suits are fully hand stitched when they are really hand made. These suits are usually a lot more expensive so make absolutely sure you are going to get what you are paying the extra money for.

Imagine a tailor at his table with a needle and thread making your suit. One perfect stitch after another painstakingly repeated more than three thousand times just to make the suit you're wearing on the big day. Hour after hour of meticulous handiwork by a true craftsman who creates a sublime suit by the use of a keen eye and a deft touch only acquired by decades of experience. This is the way tailors have been making suits for centuries and, with the advent of mass production, is slowly becoming a dying art in the western world.

However, the opening up of the Chinese sea ports after the opium wars in the mid 1800's paved the way for British tailors to emigrate to the east bring with them tailoring skills developed over centuries. These tailors passed on their skills to their young apprentices and places such as Shanghai and Hong Kong are now know the world over for their excellence in tailoring. This has been further enhanced by tailors from Savile Row, unable to find young tailors in England to replace the older tailors now retiring from the trade, schooling already experienced Chinese tailors in the techniques made famous by the standards the Row demands. 

Fully hand stitching a suit is an expensive process. It can take up to 80 hours of labour to make a suit of such exacting standard. It's a perfect task to outsource to the lower labour rates of China and bespoke tailors the world over now have their suits made in Chinese workshops. Even a number of Savile Row tailors have outsourced their suitmaking to suitably trained Chinese tailors who have set up specialist workshops to produce suits of world's best quality. Some Savile Row tailors have even set up their own workshops in China.

It's easy to tell a fully hand stitched suit. One look at the inside of the jacket tells the whole story. The difference to a machine stitched suit is striking. At first glance many people think there may be a flaw in their suit because they're so used to the rigid uniformity of a factory made suit. However it's these little deviations from conformity that give each suit its own personality. Tiny little variances, not only from tailor to tailor, but even between two suits from the same tailor. No two suits are ever exactly identical which is the timeless beauty of this long tradition of hand tailoring.

I can assure you from personal experience once you buy your first fully hand stitched suit it will be almost impossible to even look at buying anything else again.

Read this BLOG POST for more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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